“A lot of people have left the industry.” Asked to sum up 2021, “crucible” is the first word out of his mouth. The executive chef at Anju in Washington, who’s spent half his 32 years in the industry, is no Ted Lasso. One of them, Angel Barreto, sees something profound - positive even - coming out of the mess. Eighteen months into the global crisis, the people who feed us away from home wonder how much resilience they still need to muster. A lack of staff means shorter hours of operation at restaurants across the board. Service seems to be in a free fall as dining room staff have left the industry in droves, there’s a chance you’ll be asked for proof of vaccination when you show up for your reservation, and good luck finding somewhere to eat early in the week or late at night. Eat out with any frequency and you can’t help but notice changes on the restaurant scene wrought by the pandemic.
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